Will Secondary Glazing Stop Condensation on Old Sash Windows?

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Will Secondary Glazing Stop Condensation on Old Sash Windows?

Will Secondary Glazing Stop Condensation on Old Sash Windows?

Will Secondary Glazing Stop Condensation on Sash Windows? (Solved)

Category: Home Maintenance / Insulation
Reading Time: 5 Minutes

📌 The Dry Summary

  • The Problem: Old sash windows are single-glazed and notoriously cold, creating the perfect surface for condensation.
  • The Fix: Secondary glazing adds a second internal pane, keeping the inner glass warm.
  • The Result: It eliminates the “Dew Point” effect on the room side, stopping puddles on your window sills.
  • Bonus: It’s significantly cheaper than replacing the original sash boxes.

It’s a familiar winter morning ritual for owners of period properties in Hampshire: waking up, grabbing a towel, and wiping down the puddles of water on the sash window sills. It’s tedious, it ruins your timber frames, and if left unchecked, it leads to unsightly black mould.

Dehumidifiers help, but they are a temporary patch. To stop condensation permanently on sash windows without ripping them out, you need to fix the root cause: Cold Glass.

1. Why Do My Sash Windows Sweat? (The Science)

Condensation isn’t a problem with your windows leaking water in; it is a problem with physics. It occurs when warm, moist air inside your home comes into contact with a cold surface.

Diagram showing how secondary glazing creates a thermal barrier
The air gap acts as a buffer, keeping the inner glass warm and dry.

When warm air hits the cold single pane of a sash window, it cools down rapidly. Cool air cannot hold as much moisture as warm air, so it releases that water onto the nearest surface—your glass. This is known as the Dew Point.

Original sash windows are terrible insulators. On a freezing day outside, the glass inside your room is also freezing. This makes it a magnet for moisture.

2. How Secondary Glazing Stops It

You cannot change the weather outside, and you need to breathe inside (creating moisture). The only variable you can change is the temperature of the glass.

Secondary glazing installs a second pane of glass on the inside of your existing sash window. This creates a sealed air gap that acts as a thermal buffer.

  • The Outer Window: Still gets cold, taking the brunt of the weather.
  • The Air Gap: Traps a layer of insulating air (or dead air).
  • The Inner Window (Secondary): Stays warm because it is separated from the cold outside air.

Because the inner pane (the one touching your room air) is now warm, the air doesn’t cool down enough to hit the Dew Point. No cold surface = No condensation.

💡 KJM Pro Tip: For sash windows, we use Vertical Sliding secondary glazing. The panels slide up and down just like your original window, meaning you can still open them easily for ventilation in summer.

3. Heat Retention: U-Values Compared

Stopping condensation is great, but saving money on heating is better. We measure insulation using “U-values” (the lower the number, the better the insulation).

Here is how secondary glazing transforms the thermal performance of a single glazed window:

Window Type Typical U-Value Thermal Efficiency
Single Glazed Sash 5.8 W/m²K Very Poor (Heat escapes rapidly)
Double Glazing (Standard) 1.2 – 1.6 W/m²K Good
Secondary Glazing (Standard) 2.7 W/m²K 50% Improvement
Secondary Glazing (with Low-E Glass) 1.8 W/m²K ~65% Improvement (Near Double Glazing levels)

4. The Role of Low-E Glass

If your goal is heat retention, we highly recommend specifying Low-E (Low Emissivity) Glass such as Pilkington K or Saint Gobain Planitherm.

This glass has a microscopic metal coating on one side. It acts like a thermal mirror:

  1. It lets heat from the sun (solar gain) enter your room.
  2. It reflects the heat generated by your radiators back *into* the room, rather than letting it escape through the glass.

By combining the air gap of secondary glazing with Low-E glass, you achieve thermal performance that rivals modern double glazing, all without touching your original windows.

5. Frequently Asked Questions

It will virtually eliminate condensation on the *room side* of the glass. However, you must ensure your home is adequately ventilated. If humidity is extremely high (e.g., drying clothes indoors with no open vents), moisture will find the next coldest surface (like walls) to settle on.

This can happen if warm air leaks into the cavity. However, secondary glazing is usually designed with balanced ventilation (or trickle vents) to allow the cavity to breathe gently, equalizing the temperature and clearing any mist.

Yes. Because you are retaining your existing frames and not paying for disposal or making good plasterwork, secondary glazing is a significantly cheaper way to upgrade your home’s thermal efficiency.

Mark Pearce

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